Naergi's lost keys - Cranach's Luther - need an idea for sleeves...

From: pinque Date: August 29th, 2006 - 03:22 am (Link)

My slashed brim hat sould work. You would just nee to pleat the edges rather than cut them...
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/hats.htm
So where the cut outs are is where the pleats would be and the oval is where the hole for the head goes. I don't have the piece for the ear flap online though, it's shaped a bit like a rolled out banana;)
There are so many variations on this basic hat, it's really nifty. Slashed or unslashed; one or two flaps; fur lined or not. Combinations of all those:) And there is even a knitted example still at the GNM!
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI07905b02a.jpg
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI07905b03a.jpg
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI07905b04a.jpg
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI07905b05a.jpg
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI07905b06a.jpg


I do have a few full length images of this type of Schaube. If you have Kohler's book History of Costume (or even better access to his original huge series in German...) there are a couple of patterns in there that could work. I don't know if any of them have a yoke though...

There are a few sketches on bildindex. I found one recently doing a search for sketches by Bruegel of all things...
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmbc25064_10a.jpg
But there are several styles to choose from. I went to bildindex and in the "expert search" area I chose the dates 1520-1540 and the search word mann and got several different examples:)

http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/koeln_2579022b.jpg
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/gg3464_031b.jpg
These are a bit like mine in that they have open hanging sleeves and no yokes.

http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi08160c03a.jpg
Some Schauben are short.
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/gmp1531b.jpg
Some have loose sleeves and yokes.


Apparently at the time there were more than a few names for the different types, but it's really confusing and can be hard to work out what each actually means.

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From: naergilien Date: August 29th, 2006 - 09:41 am (Link)

Thank you so much, Michaela! You're saving my life, well, almost (*I* would *not* want to be around when my father enters the medieval faire and someone would approach him and say 'Oh, fantasy sleeves!' - or something like that. This is *the* project with which I can prove to my father that I can actually sew historical garments about which people won't laugh...
(So far, he believes just that!)

And, yes, I would have access to Köhler, and a massive amount of other historical costuming books in Hamburg's University library - but - only if I would drive to Hamburg - and the Cranach gown and my fathers coat and hat have to be finished until *Saturday*, so I don't have even *those* four hours...

Just keep sewing, sewing, sewing... ;-)

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From: gea_gilwen Date: August 29th, 2006 - 08:30 am (Link)

The hat: Looks like a "Münzer cap" to me. Look here:
http://www.markoschenheim.de/hut/100Mark.htm (I know you won't need the shortcut with the Bundeswehr beret, but apart from that, this one should be perfect).

Pinque's last image suggestion also shows a similar hat, and it's even clearer to see the construction.

Greetings, Gea

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From: gea_gilwen Date: August 29th, 2006 - 08:33 am (Link)

I'm so silly - it's not Münzer, but Münster.
Don't know why I thought that someone like Thomas Mün(t)zer would be honoured by being printed on 100 DM banknotes...

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From: naergilien Date: August 29th, 2006 - 09:37 am (Link)

Doesn't matter at the moment - the important thing is that I know how to make that darn cap! *lol*... ;-)

Thanks so much, but I have no idea if my father, who so far only knows about a 'coat', will appreciate the silly hat - well, I'll make him appreciate it ;-)

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From: gea_gilwen Date: August 29th, 2006 - 10:26 am (Link)

Maybe the perspective of looking like that guy on the 100 DM banknotes is enough - there must be a reason for being portrayed there...

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